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Oven Range Tips
| Electric Range - Gas Range |
ELECTRIC RANGE / STOVE / OVEN
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Warning! To
avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance
from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the
circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair
work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp
edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
It's stopped
completely
It won't bake
It bakes poorly
It won't broil
A burner doesn't work
A burner works only
intermittently
I can't adjust the
burner temperature
It won't bake or
broil
The clock stopped
The temperature is
wrong
The oven light
doesn't work
There's a
self-cleaning problem
The oven door won't
close
An indicator light
doesn't work correctly
The oven is hot on
the outside
I see sparks!
The drip pans need
replacing
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If your
range/oven doesn't seem to work at all, check these:
Fuse/circuit breaker
Main wiring
Range/oven wiring
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Check to see
if power is getting to the range/oven. Does anything turn on--even a
light? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.
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Often the
main wiring connection from the house, at the range/oven, gets burned
and so breaks the connection. Then you may have to replace the power
cord to the range/oven, and the terminal block that the wire is attached
to.
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There may be
a broken or burned wire at the back of the range/oven. If you repair any
of the wires, use only proper appliance-grade wire and wire connectors.
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Usually,
when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake element is burned out.
The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the
oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an
expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may
last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.
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Here are two
instances of when food "bakes poorly:"
- When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the
bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake
element may be burned out.
You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot
inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the
preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the
broil element, which causes poor baking results.
If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the
problem. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's
electrical system to locate the defective wire or component.
- When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, it
could be one of several different things. First check to see if the
thermostat sensing bulb has come loose from its holder. It could be
lying on the floor of the oven or resting on the heating element. This
would cause the oven to not heat correctly.
If the thermostat bulb is not dislodged, it's likely that the
thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective.
Electronic ovens with a digital display use a sensor to monitor oven
temperature. To solve temperature problems for these models, you may
need to replace the sensor. On some digital-display models, you can
calibrate the temperature using the key pad. See your operator's
manual for details.
Ovens without a digital display often use a mechanical system for
controlling temperature. On many of these units, you can remove the
thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately
represent the actual setting of the thermostat.
If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a
small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate,
then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the
oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to
replace the thermostat to solve the problem.
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Usually,
when an oven won't broil, it's because the broiler element is burned
out. The broiler element in an electric oven is the black, pencil-thick
tube at the top of the oven. When the broiler is on, the element glows
red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may
last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns
out, you need to replace it.
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Heating
elements eventually burn out. Sometimes, when an element burns out, you
can see that the coil burns in two, or blisters and bubbles.
When your heating element burns out, you have to replace it because they
are not repairable. If, when the heating element burns out, the infinite
switch that controls it also fails, you have to replace it too. Also see
the "A burner works only intermittently" section, next.
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If one of
your burner heating elements works only intermittently, it's probably
because of worn or bad contacts in the receptacle that the element plugs
into. On most electric ranges, you can remove the element by lifting it
up several inches and firmly pulling it away from its attachment
(receptacle). Read your owner's manual to learn the correct technique
for your range.
If, after removing the element, you see that the ends of the element
that were plugged in are pitted, corroded, burned, scarred, or rusted,
replace both the element and the receptacle.
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If your
burner always heats to "high" when it's on--regardless of how you set
the burner knob--the switch contacts are shorted closed. Check the
circuit for any other grounds, then replace the switch.
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If neither
the bake nor the broiler heating elements heat, but the range burners
still work, the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle.
Check to be sure the clock buttons and knobs are set properly. If your
clock has a knob that says "push for man(ual)", push the knob in and try
the baking and broiling elements again. If it still does not operate
properly, you probably have a defect in the thermostat, selector switch,
or common wiring.
If the oven does not have a separate bake/broil/etc. selector switch,
the problem may be with the thermostat. But it's not easy to check the
selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a
problem in this area, call a qualified appliance repair technician.
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The
non-electronic clocks on electric range/ovens often don't last long.
That's a problem, because the clock is essential to the self-cleaning
and timed-bake features. Clocks are rarely repairable--you usually just
have to replace them.
Electronic clocks have been more reliable. But, they're often integrated
with several other features of the range/oven. So when the clock
develops a defect, it often renders the entire oven and broiler
inoperative. The electronic clock is usually integrated with a circuit
board, and the touchpad that holds the buttons you press is often a
separate component. If your electronic clock is defective, you may need
to replace the touchpad, circuit board, or both. Although these may be
expensive, they aren't usually very complicated to replace.
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See the "It
bakes poorly" section.
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The interior
oven light in most ovens is a standard 40 watt appliance bulb. Often, to
change the bulb, you first need to remove a shield or glass dome. If the
bulb isn't burned out, the problem may be with the switch on the oven
door frame. If the switch works poorly, intermittently, or not at all,
you need to replace it.
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The
self-cleaning system on an electric oven is fairly complex. To be able
to set and use the self-cleaning feature, you need to read and
understand the owner's manual. If you have problems with this system,
call a qualified appliance repair technician.
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If your oven
door has gotten bent or warped (maybe you rested something heavy on
it…), you need to remove the door, disassemble it, and straighten it.
You can lift most oven doors off of their hinges by opening the door
several inches to its first "stop," and lifting the entire door straight
up.
If the hinges have become worn, damaged, or bent, you probably need to
replace them. We recommend replacing both hinges at the same time, to
prevent uneven wear of the undamaged hinge.
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When an
indicator light has stopped working, you may be able to replace just the
bulb--but you usually have to replace the entire light assembly.
Alternatively, there could be a problem with your burner sensor (stuck
open or closed) or your indicator light circuit.
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It may be
normal for your oven to become quite warm on the outside during baking,
broiling, or self-cleaning. In some cases, the front door of an oven can
become too hot to comfortably touch. Or, if the integrity of the door
seal is poor, heat could escape from the oven and cause the overheating.
Consult a qualified appliance repair technician.
Note… If you suspect that any part of the oven is dangerously hot, turn
the oven off immediately and consult a qualified appliance repair
technician.
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If you ever
see sparks coming from the range or oven, unplug it immediately. Then,
when the unit has cooled down, try to find exactly where the sparks came
from.
If the sparks came from an obvious place like the surface burner heating
elements or the bake/broil element, repair or replace any defective
component you find. If you can't locate the place the sparks came
from--or can't fix the problem yourself--contact a qualified appliance
repair technician.
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On most
electric ranges, you can lift up the heating elements several inches
and/or remove them, then remove and replace the drip bowl.
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Warning! To
avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance
from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the
circuit breaker or fuse box-before you do any troubleshooting or repair
work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp
edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
It's stopped
completely
It won't bake
It bakes poorly or
the temperature is wrong
It won't broil
A burner doesn't
work
It won't bake or
broil
The clock stopped
The oven light
doesn't work
There's a
self-cleaning problem
The door won't close
An indicator light
doesn't work
The oven is hot on
the outside
I smell gas!
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Not all gas
ranges/ovens require electricity. If yours has a clock, electronic
igniters, self-cleaning, or any other electrical features, the unit
needs electricity to work properly. Check to see whether there's power
getting to the range/oven. Does anything turn on--even a light? If not,
check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.
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If your oven
won't bake, check these:
Bake igniter
Other causes
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Usually when
an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out.
The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch
by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.
The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's
ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when
ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red
but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow
to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you
may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually
the igniter is to blame.
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Other
reasons that your oven may not bake are:
- The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a
self-cleaning oven).
- The thermostat is defective.
- The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.
- The selector switch is defective.
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Here are two
instances of when food "bakes poorly:"
- When the item takes far too long to finish, you probably have a
weak bake igniter. Often, you need to replace the igniter, but you may
want to troubleshoot the oven's electrical system further to more
precisely locate the defect.
- When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, the
oven thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective. If
your oven uses an electronic temperature-regulating device, you may
have an electric sensor in the oven instead of a mechanical
thermostat. If the oven temperature is off by 30 to 40 degrees in this
type of unit, you must replace the sensor.
On many units with a mechanical thermostat, you can remove the
thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately
represent the actual setting of the thermostat. If, when you remove
the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration
plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the
screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is
off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat
to solve the problem.
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If your oven
won't broil, check these:
Broil igniter
Other causes
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Usually,
when an oven won't broil, it's because the broil igniter is weak or
burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, about 1
inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.
The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's
ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when
ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red
but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow
to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you
may need to replace the igniter or the safety valve. Usually the igniter
is to blame.
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Other
reasons that your oven may not broil are:
- The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a
self-cleaning oven).
- The thermostat is defective.
- The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.
- The selector switch is defective.
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The most
common problem for gas surface burners is that they get gas but don't
light. This is generally caused by dirt or grease splatters on the
burner itself. Residential-grade range/stove burners are round and have
small holes around their perimeter to allow gas to flow out and create a
round flame. The gas coming from these holes is often ignited by a small
vertical row of holes on the side of the burner. If these vertical holes
are clogged or obstructed, the gas can't ignite.
The solution is to clean the burners thoroughly. Use a toothpick to
clear the small vertical holes, then allow the burner to dry completely
and try lighting it again. If it doesn't light immediately, either
repeat the procedure or call a qualified appliance repair technician.
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If neither
the oven nor the broiler heats, but the range burners still work, the
clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. Check to be sure
the clock buttons and knobs are set properly. If your clock has a knob
that says "push for man(ual)," push the knob in and try heating the oven
and broiler again. If they still don't work properly, you probably have
a defect in the thermostat, selector switch, or common wiring.
Note… If the oven doesn't have a separate bake/broil/etc. selector
switch, the problem is often with the thermostat. It's not easy to check
the selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a
problem with either of these, call a qualified appliance repair
technician.
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The
non-electronic clocks on gas range/ovens often don't last long. That's a
problem, because the clock is essential to the self-cleaning and
timed-bake features. Clocks are rarely repairable--you usually just have
to replace them.
Electronic clocks have been more reliable. But, they're often integrated
with several other features of the range/oven. So when the clock
develops a defect, it often renders the entire oven and broiler
inoperative. The electronic clock is usually integrated with a circuit
board, and the touchpad that holds the buttons you press is often a
separate component. If your electronic clock is defective, you may need
to replace the touchpad, circuit board, or both. Although these may be
expensive, they aren't usually very complicated to replace.
|
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The interior
oven light in most ovens is a standard 40 watt appliance bulb. Often, to
change the bulb, you first need to remove a shield or glass dome. If the
bulb isn't burned out, the problem may be with the switch on the oven
door frame. If the switch works poorly, intermittently, or not at all,
you need to replace it.
|
|
|
|
The
self-cleaning system on a gas oven is fairly complex. To be able to set
and use the self-cleaning feature, you need to read and understand the
owner's manual. If you have problems with this system, call a qualified
appliance repair technician. |
|
|
If your oven
door has gotten bent or warped (maybe you rested something heavy on
it…), you need to remove the door, disassemble it, and straighten it.
You can lift most oven doors off of their hinges by opening the door
several inches to its first "stop," and lifting the entire door straight
up.
If the hinges have become worn, damaged, or bent, you probably need to
replace them. We recommend replacing both hinges at the same time, to
prevent uneven wear of the undamaged hinge. |
|
|
|
When an
indicator light has stopped working, you may be able to replace just the
bulb--but you usually have to replace the entire light assembly. |
|
|
It may be
normal for your oven to become quite warm on the outside during baking,
broiling, or self-cleaning. In some cases, the front door of an oven can
become too hot to comfortably touch. I f the integrity of the door seal
is poor, heat could escape from the oven and cause the overheating.
Consult a qualified appliance repair technician.
Note… If you suspect that any part of the oven is dangerously hot, turn
the oven off immediately and consult a qualified appliance repair
technician. |
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Warning! If
you smell gas coming from your range/oven, you may be in danger! You
may, of course, get a brief whiff of gas as you light a surface burner,
but if you smell gas at any other time, turn off the gas to the
appliance immediately. Then call your local gas company and ask them to
pinpoint the source of the gas. If the problem is with the range/oven,
have a qualified appliance repair technician repair it. |
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